Did you know that the modern hair typing system was created by Andre Walker in the 1990s?

Originally created to market Walker's line of hair care products, today Walker’s broad-spectrum hair typing system is used ubiquitously in every context that involves textured hair. Walker’s system classifies various hair textures into 4 types with added sub-categories (1,2,3,4; a,b,c), with most naturals falling into the Type 3 or Type 4 categories.

However, although many people identify their hair by their hair texture, the porosity of your curls is equally if not more important! So, in our first edition of Glimmer 411’s blog, we’ll break down Type 3 and Type 4 hair and also explain how porosity plays a role in understanding curly hair.

Type 3 vs. Type 4: What’s the Difference?

Type 3

Curly Hair (3A, 3B)

Type 3 hair is classified as curly hair. Up close, it possesses an “S” shape. This hair type is voluminous, humidity-loving, and prone to damage. If this hair type sounds like yours, make sure to give your curls some extra TLC in order to avoid dullness.⠀

Curly-to-Coily Hair (3C)

Curly-to-Coily hair is also known as as 3C. Bordering Type 4 hair, These curls are made up lots of of densely packed and coily strands; they create a voluminous texture. Not sure if you are borderline Curly or Coily? You’re probably 3C!

Type 4

Coily Hair (4A, 4B)⠀

Type 4 hair is classified as Coily. Upon a first glance, 4A and 4B hair is said to possess a wiry texture. Up close, Coily hair strands have a “Z” shape. Generally, Type 4 hair is the driest of hair type. Because it is prone to damage and breakage, Coily hair requires gentle maneuvering when cleansing and detangling.

Coily-to-Kinky Hair (4C)⠀

4C hair is on the kinkier side of the Coily hair spectrum. 4C hair is said to be the most fragile of all hair textures due to less cuticle layers to protect from moisture loss. Type 4 Coily-to-Kinky Hair, like 3C, is classified as tightly packed coils. Individual strands possess a fine, wiry, and coarse nature. Like other textures in the Type 4 hair family, 4C naturals deal with less curl definition, dryness, tangles, shrinkage, and breakage. Make sure to treat your curls with a gentle hand, and don’t forget to moisturize!

What about Porosity?

What is it and why does it matter?

Porosity describes your hair’s ability to absorb moisture and moisturizing is the CORE FOUNDATION of healthy hair. ⁣Understanding your hair’s porosity level will help you make sure your hair absorbs AND retains moisture adequately, and help you make smarter hair regimen decisions.

There are 3 porosity levels: low, normal, & high.⠀

How do I determine my hair’s porosity?

A simple way to determine your level is the float test with a glass of water. For the float test, first drop a strand of your hair into a glass of water. If your hair floats to the top, your hair is likely low porosity, meaning the cuticle is very tight and it’s difficult for water to enter.⠀

If your hair sinks to the bottom, you likely have high porosity hair, meaning your cuticles aren’t tightly closed and water is absorbed quickly.

If hair floats in the middle, your hair is probably normal porosity, meaning water eases in and out the hair cuticle easily with great balance… yay for you!⠀

My hair is low porosity!

With low porosity, focus on opening the hair cuticle. Steaming treatments gently lift the hair cuticle so moisture is infused directly. Deep conditioning with other mild heat techniques (ex. sitting under a hooded dryer) is another great way to open the cuticle, ensuring your hair is soaking up as much moisture as possible.

My hair is high porosity!

With high porosity, focus on retaining moisture. The LOC method helps retain or seal moisture. The LOC method is a series of steps used to apply products: ⠀

L – Liquid or Leave in Conditioner⠀
O – Oil ⠀
C – Cream⠀

This Week’s Featured Product

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie

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Curl Cupid™ Hair Quiz

Want to know more about how porosity should play a role in your hair care regimen?

We did too. That’s why the Glimmer 411 team created the Curl Cupid™ Hair Quiz. Take the Hair Quiz today to receive a custom hair report with in-depth details on how to take better care of your curls!

Learn more